question for Alex - Getting some pinging

René

Moderator
Ben I edited that on B5, you actually want to extend the linkage on this model f turbo so that the wastegate is open more. If there is any play in the linkage with the engine off, I would recommend adjusting the linkage to remove the play. go in one turn increments, this way you can be sure to return to the starting point.
 

AceConrad

Active Member
Hopefully I can get chipped soon. Tazz thinks he can get together with me some time before the 23rd. Problem is the temps are dropping here now so unless we get a hot day again we might not have an answer on my situation until next spring!
 

bciesq

Active Member
Rene-
I came across the following post you made on Club B5 in response to a question regarding pinging on an Australian '98 B5. (For the record, this Australian B5 was NOT running UPsolute software.) Does this apply to our situation?
I have thought about this quite a bit, this particular model was subject to premature failure of the wastegate actuator, It is also harder to control boost on it as it does not have a charge pressure sensor to provide closed loop boost control. Boost pressure is a function of the duty cycle of the N75 wastegate control solonoid. First, make absolutely sure there is no leaks on the hose that runs from the control solonoid to the actuator, also check the hose from the boost line to the solonoid for leaks, and the vent line on the solonoid to insure it's not obstructed.(This can happen by the way with the CCV system, I have seen actuators that were full of oil) After verifying all of these things, I would recommend that you install a boost gauge to determine the level of boost you are producing. Ottinger is known to be generally conservative in their programming, I would expect around 12 to 13 psi of boost. If you are seeing more than this, my recommendation would be to tighten the linkage on the wastegate actuator so that there is no apparent slack. Mark your starting position so that you can return to it if you experience too much lag. Be sure to use locktight 271 (non permanant) to insure the lock nut is not going to loosen up on it's own after you set it to a suitable point. I cannot see a problem with doing this. As you are a shortening the rod actuator , the overall effect will be greater wastegate opening for any given duty cycle of the actuator solonoid. The result would be less boost overall, the doenside would be if taken too far, lag and slower spoolup. You do not want to adjust it that far, be sure it closes completely when the engine is off. Good luck with your car.
I realize that you may be hesitant to recommend that I play with the wastegate (especially since I am an attorney ;) ), but I'll go ahead and state publicly that I understand that you are not responsible for any damage to my turbo resulting from my implementation of free advice given on this board.
So what do you think? Is this something worth trying?
TIA for any input.
Ben
 

Bug_Power

Active Member
Originally posted by valois:
Ben I edited that on B5, you actually want to extend the linkage on this model f turbo so that the wastegate is open more. If there is any play in the linkage with the engine off, I would recommend adjusting the linkage to remove the play. go in one turn increments, this way you can be sure to return to the starting point.
I WOULD NOT DO FULL TURNS...I would start with 1/4 turns. Best adjustment will be found with smaller increments. A little goes a long way. BillyT blew his K03 by taking 1 turn incraments
 

bciesq

Active Member
OK, perhaps the following question disqualifies me as incompetent to adjust the wastegate, but here goes none-the-less:
How do I get to the adjustment screw/bolt/nut for the wastegate?
My understanding is that the wastegate actuator is the brass colored device on the front of the turbo and that the adjustment screw is on the back of the turbo at the other end of the wastegate rod. My problem is that I can see no easy way to access the adjustment screw other than through a small opening between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. I can barely get my had in there, much less make a fine adjustment to the wastegate rod.
So I wonder, am I missing something? Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to do this without removing the exhaust manifold and turbo?
FWIW, I've looked around on the web for howto's on this procedure, but most of the information deals with transverse 1.8t motors or with TDI motors. I can't find anything on long mounted 1.8t motors.
TIA for any response.
Ben
 

AceConrad

Active Member
Well, I got re-chipped by Tazz last Thursday after having my turbo replaced some time ago. Even though the ambient temperatures are lower now I immediately started getting pinging whenever I got on the throttle. I had about a quarter tank of 91 octane in the car but filled up with 94 on Saturday and have been running with that since then. The pinging has reduced but is still present when I floor it in second or third gear. Just before my turbo died the pinging had stopped but the performance was still there (and that was in 30+ deg Celcius temperatures!) . I'm assuming that the boost being produced had dropped a little so that it wasn't leaning out. Since going to colder plugs has not solved the problem for the other two guys I am aware of that have 98s and were also getting pinging I would like to see a slightly detuned version of the more aggresive program.
 

bciesq

Active Member
I second that motion.
My pinging problem has gotten "better" as the outside temps have dropped, but it has not gone away. If there is any way to back off the program just a little at WOT I would really appreciate it.
For the record, I am one of those who switched to cooler plugs with only a modest improvement.
Ben
 

René

Moderator
We will back off on the file a little guys, get up with your respective distributors, this will be the M03 version. Can you detail the RPMs that this is occuring?
 

AceConrad

Active Member
I'm getting the pinging from around 2500 to 4200 rpm at WOT in 2nd and third gear. Don't notice it in first but 2500-4200 goes by so fast then anyway! :tonguewink: Fourth gear is OK I think. Partial throttle is OK in any gear.
 

duandcc

Active Member
Thanks Rene, you rock. I can only hear pinging from 3,000 through about 3,500 RPM. Happens in any gear (why would the gear matter?) but first goes by so quickly that I really can't tell for sure whether it's pinging in first, but I am assuming it is. It only happens for about 1/2 second then the knock sensors do their job. But my guess is that it may be pinging in other RPM ranges but so slightly that I cannot hear it above the engine clatter (but this is just a guess).
Rene, since you are my closest UP guy, how do you want to handel this? Any idea when the slightly detuned version will be ready? Any chance of a hot swap so I can avoid downtime and try the new version to make sure there is no further pinging?
Thanks again! :D
 

bciesq

Active Member
Wow, I guess these non-DBW Passats are all a little different. I only get pinging at WOT in 2nd and 3rd gears (mostly third) in the 3000 to 4000 rpm range. Although to be honest, the motor may continue pinging past that point as I instinctively let off the throttle when I hear the pinging start.
Also, the car performs *very* well at partial throttle in all gears. In fact, my only hesitation in going to a detuned program is that I have now learned to adapt and avoid the "ping zone" on my car.
Of course there could still be pinging that occurs outside my ability to hear it, and it would be nice to be able to "floor it" and go.
Finally, if it's convenient for Jim Wilson to drop by, I'll make my car available for data logging so that Alex can have more accurate data. Oh, and if Jim needs some encouragement, I'll be happy to spring for lunch or beers.
Ben
 

René

Moderator
Duane, I can send you an ECU for exchange. So it seems most of the problems are from 3000 to 4000. what we will do is back off the wastegate duty cycle just a little in this area for you guys, power should be the same as when you are pinging you are not ,making good power like you should.
 

René

Moderator
Ace, we have constructed a new file, especially for you 3 guys, that will decrease boost very slightly and increase fueling slightly to eliminate the detonation, it should be as strong or stronger than thie present file, please get up with Tazz for the updated file. Report back how it works for you, Thanks for your patience guys, we wanted to make sure that your plug changes would take care of it, and be certain we could customize the file as much as possible to still get as much power as possible, your comments helped tremendously.
 

RudeLove

Member
FWIW guys - I've got a 2k NewBeetle 1.8T..In support of the pinging being caused by heat - I notice pinging when I've been driving for a long time, or when I've been running the AC on a warm/hot day - but when it's cooler - nothing (save for other problems I'm having unrelated to pinging)..
 

duandcc

Active Member
Matt: read the thread again, we've tried everything, better gas, octane booster, cooler spark plugs, cleaning the MAF...
Sorry I didn't comment on the new software sooner, but my car went into the dealer for a suspension problem the same day I got the new software. I have now had time to fully evaluate the new software and the result is..... NO PINGING! :D
Thank you UPsolute! I can detect no signs of pinging anywhere no matter how hard I drive. :D But the real test willo be next summer when temps are back in the 90s with high humidty.
The new software is every bit as powerful as the previous stuff... well almost as powerful. There is slightly less power from idle to about 4,000... but IMHO it is well worth it to not ping my car to death. I am 100% satisfied! So, for those of you ping ing... get it rechipped NOW! :D
[ 22 October 2001: Message edited by: duandcc ]
 
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